Coastal Voyager

Swimming with whale sharks at the Georgia Aquarium

My mother, sister, nephew and I visited the Georgia Aquarium, the largest aquarium in the world, after it first opened in Atlanta several years ago. We all were impressed with its many colorful and educational marinelife displays. The aquarium has numerous unique exhibits such as Tropical Diver, a reef system chockful of neon bright fish and the occasional crashing wave.

But the big "Wow!" moment came as we rounded a wall in one of the exhibits and unexpectedly came upon the aquarium's 61-foot-wide-by 23-foot-tall Ocean Voyager viewing window. We gaped through the towering acrylic window and saw mighty whale sharks swimming in the rich blue water at the top of the 6.3-million-gallon tank.

Schools of tarpon, pompano and cownose rays as well as individual zebra sharks, sawfish, leopard whiprays, bowmouth guitarfish and humphead wrasses swam below. Time stood still as we stared and marveled at the sea creatures that swam and floated before us.

Afterwards I often thought back to the spectacle of that viewing window, which still is one of my most memorable experiences as an avid snorkeler and aquarium aficionado. When I learned several months ago that it was possible to snorkel or dive in the Ocean Voyager tank through the aquarium's Journey with Gentle Giants program, I jumped at the chance.

Was I worried about the sharks in the tank? Although whale sharks grow to be 25 to 35 feet long or longer they eat plankton. And the other sharks are fed daily so they aren't a threat I'd been told by aquarium officials. As I've seen a number of non-aggressive sharks in open water while snorkeling and diving, I didn't give it too much thought.

I arrived early at the aquarium before my session so I'd have several hours to be mesmerized by Pacific sea nettles, leafy sea dragons, lionfish and other freaky wonders of the water world. One of my favorite stops at the aquarium is the 100-foot-long underwater acrylic tunnel under the Ocean Voyager tank. There's something delightful about seeing hundreds of fish swimming above your head.

Before the swim my group was given an orientation, then we suited up in the locker room at the top of the tank. Although all swimmers are issued an airtank and regulator, they can opt just to use their snorkel, which was my preference as it's quieter. We entered the water one by one then our swim across the surface of the tank began.

Soon we were joined by four huge whale sharks and two large manta rays swimming alongside and just under us. I was soon entranced by the quiet of the deep, the sweeping tails and fins and undulating shapes of the creatures near us, and the cornucopia of fishes below. The wide expanse of one whale shark's spotted body slowly moved just beneath me and I became hypnotized by the multitude of white circular shapes that seemed to have been softly spray-painted on a gray ground.

Occasionally I glanced way down at the bottom of the tank just behind our group and would see a hammerhead shark cocking his head up and eyeing us. I felt he was particularly looking at me, and that made me a bit nervous. But then I would just reassure myself and turn my attention back to my bliss, the hauntingly quiet blue and the strange marvels inhabiting it.

Echos of the past: Exploring Boston's Public Garden and Freedom Trail

My exploration of Boston began a bit late in the day. After a therapeutic morning massage, I had napped for hours in my room at the Four Seasons trying to sleep off a bad cold. When I awoke that afternoon the overcast sky had cleared, as had my head, and the Public Garden was green and inviting outside my bay window.

The concierge gave me a map of the area and pointed out a few area attractions, including the Freedom Trail, and the street where I had dinner reservations that evening. I was a little on edge because of my lack of familarity with the city. A bit dazed and wondering what I might happen upon, I walked out and crossed Boylston Street to the garden. It was a start.

I instantly felt at ease in the charming Victorian-style park. Bands of colorful tulips lined the paths surrounding an elevated bronze statue of George Washington and his horse. Tall weeping willows lined a central pond traversed by a swan boat. The many cherry trees in the park were in bloom and their blossoms fell like snow. While the park was busy with visitors it wasn't crowded. After meandering awhile, I walked on across the garden and soon came to an exit that lead toward Boston Commons.

The commons, although just as vibrant green, was a larger, yet simpler park by far. The people in it who weren't resting on benches were walking decisively across the commons on their way somewhere. As the Freedom Trail began in the park, I decided to look for the beginning of the narrow red brick trail that's lead millions of visitors down sidewalks and across streets to 16 historic sites. Might as well follow the trail for a bit, I thought, since I had an hour or two before dinner. I couldn't help but marvel at the striking, gold-domed State House high on Beacon Hill.

As I continued on the way, I noted Park Street Church and then the Granary Burying Ground. School children were listening to their teacher tell them about Paul Revere, Samuel Adams and other historic figures buried there. It's something we all have in common growing up in this country and learning about these heroes of history as children. Being in the place where they were buried hit home with me. They no longer seemed like characters out of story, but real men who lived and died.

I paused for a bit at the Benjamin Franklin statue at the Boston Latin School he briefly attended, then smiled to see a Starbucks next door. The old and the new make for such an interesting contrast in the city. Skyscrapers tower above historic churches, meeting halls and other civic buildings.

Soon I came upon the Old South Meeting House, which was built in 1729 by a Puritan congregation. It was the largest building in colonial Boston, according to the history books. A placard noted Franklin had been baptized there and that African-American slave and poet Phillis Wheatley worshipped there. Something about the old church beckoned me to go in.

There in the main hall the high white walls seemed to echo with the words of Samuel Adams and others who fomented the American Revolution by protesting the Boston Massacre, impressment of Americans into the British Navy and tax on tea. Here the Boston Tea Party was set off as 5,000 colonists heard Adam's secret signal. Later the British used the hall as a riding stable for their calvary as they occupied the city in response to such civil unrest. Our country might be different if not for some of the words said here. But eventual independence seems to have been inevitable.

I had sometimes worried before that the politics of our time was more antagonistic than it had ever been, that liberals and conservatives have too often demonized each other and were polarizing the country. But any current conflicts are a lovefest compared to the rancor between Tories/Loyalists and Whigs/Patriots, I was learning.

The Loyalists, only 15 to 20 percent of the population, were frequently tarred and feathered or otherwise punished by mobs of "Patriots" if they voiced their loyalty to the crown or were suspected of it. It was a brutal time, but perhaps not quite as brutal as our beginnings with witch burnings and overrunning of Native Americans. We've come a long way, and if we do continue to falter, still we have made much progress by eventually opening our eyes to wrongdoing time after time, and correcting it.

I can't help but think it's because men and women continue to speak out against what they perceive be injustice and debate public issues, as they did and continue to do in the Old South Meeting House, that our country has become more civilized. These days we are less prone to tar and feather those whose opinions differ from our own. Our individual rights and freedoms are more often protected.

After the Old South congregation moved to a different location the old meeting house was to be torn down, and would have been if not through the efforts of early historic preservationists, including Ralph Waldo Emerson. Their efforts started a national wave of preservation. It's fitting that the Old South Meeting House, a museum and historic site since 1877, set off that revolution as well.

The oldest synagogue in the Western Hemisphere

From the outside, the Mikve Israel - Emanuel Synagogue looks much like all the other 18th century Dutch colonial buildings in Willemstad, Curacao, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It's a cheerful yellow with white trim and a red-tile roof. You wouldn't guess it's a place of worship, or suspect it's the oldest synagogue in the Western Hemisphere.

Mikve Isreal - Emanuel can claim that title because it's the oldest synagogue still standing that has has been continuously used for religious services. It was built in 1730 by a Sephardic Jewish community that had relocated to Curacao from Amsterdam.

As I always am intrigued by houses of worship whether they be Christian, Jewish, Moslem or whatever, I made a point to visit the synagogue and the adjacent Jewish Historical Museum.

After paying an admission fee I first visited the synagogue, which I had heard had a sand floor. The biggest surprise was the contrast of the simple sand with the regally appointed sanctuary. It features imposing white columns and rich mahogany pews, theba (reader's platform) and hekhal (holy ark where the Torah is kept),  accented with tall brass candlesticks and huge brass chandeliers.

Something about the humble sand and the glory of all above it brought tears to my eyes. I slipped off my clogs and put my feet in the cool sand, then drank in all the beauty around me.

Afterwards I visited the museum, first passing through a small courtyard with replicas of delicately carved tombstones from a historic Jewish cemetery. Within the museum I was surprised to see how ornate the historic religious objects and vestments of the rabbi were. It made me think of Catholicism and Orthodox Christian churches I've seen. Later I read the early community had been influenced by the Catholicism of its Portuguese homeland.

Again I was reminded of the similarities of religions back to the time before the pharohs. Having grown up in a ultra-plain Protestant church I will always be intrigued by other religion's rituals and artifacts. What's beautiful creates bliss and a spiritual state of mind.

Finding the world in Curacao

My recent return to Curacao, more specifically Willemstad, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, allowed me to understand a little better the Caribbean island I just got a taste of on my first trip two years ago.

Curacao, sister island of Aruba, is home to 45 different ethnic groups from across the world. Natives of the island typically speak at least four languages fluently (Papiaments, Dutch, English and Spanish). Even the waterfront business district of Curacao's capital, Willemstad, is a rainbow of colors.

I originally visited Curacao for Carnival, and had the opportunity to march in one of the festival's parades. There's something about dancing down the road with a group of people from milky-white to espresso-brown celebrating together. I had such a healing, inspiring "We are the World" feeling that even now brings back fond memories.

While in Willemstad on my first visit I had the opportunity to tour Museum Kura Hulanda, an anthropological museum that explores the several of the primary cultures of Curacao. The museum was created by Jacob Gelt Dekker, owner of the adjacent Kura Hulanda hotel. One of the most in-depth areas of the museum chronicles the African slave trade, showing how much of the world either participated in it or was affected by it, and still is.

Formerly the grounds of the museum and the hotel were the site of slave trading on the island. But instead of silently ringing with the cries of inhumane treatment Africans experienced there, the place resonates with a great peace. Perhaps that's because its past has not be forgotten and its present is filled with beauty and a giving spirit. Dekker, a global entrepreneur and traveler, has founded many organizations that assist the children of Curacao, Africa and many other countries across the world.

His hotel, Kura Hulanda Hotel, a series of restored Dutch colonial homes, cobblestone streets and lush, green courtyards is a place of such peace and beauty, that I yearned to stay there when I first visited the museum and grounds. I was thrilled when the opportunity to do so recently came my way.

The several days I recently spent there filled me with peace and reinvigorated my spirit. In addition to taking the shuttle out to the sister property, Kura Hulanda Resort, for some oceanside pleasures, including snorkeling, I primarily spent my time relaxing at the boutique hotel and walking in Willemstad.

There's something wonderful about cozying up with a biography of Charles Darwin in a reading chair in a room that was built around the same time Darwin lived. (The only thing more relaxing was the massage I received in the spa.) Times I wanted to connect with my present, I took my laptop out to one of the property's many courtyards or al fresco cafes and chatted with friends via Facebook.

One of the high points of my trip was meeting Dekker and talking to him about some of his projects, including the medical diagnostic facility he's planning for Kura Hulanda. That operation will complement the dialysis center he also operates adjacent to the hotel. After talking to him I felt like I'd met a true Highlander, an immortal who has lived and touched many lives.

When I was younger I felt little to nothing was being done to help the downtrodden of the world, but I have become more optimistic. As I have lived I have been fortunate to meet people like Dekker, with both resources and desire, who are making a huge difference. But all of us can make some difference. Even if it seems small to me or you, it's huge to the person who is helped.

Lyrics of We are the World
by Michael Jackson and Lionel Ritchie

There comes a time
When we heed a certain call
When the world must come together as one
There are people dying
And it's time to lend a hand to life
The greatest gift of all
We can't go on pretending day by day
That someone, somewhere will soon make a change
We are all a part of God's great big family
And the truth, you know love is all we need

[Chorus] We are the world
We are the children
We are the ones who make a brighter day
So let's start giving
There's a choice we're making
We're saving our own lives
It's true we'll make a better day
Just you and me

Send them your heart
So they'll know that someone cares
And their lives will be stronger and free
As God has shown us by turning stones to bread
So we all must lend a helping hand

[Chorus] We are the world
We are the children
We are the ones who make a brighter day
So let's start giving
There's a choice we're making
We're saving our own lives
It's true we'll make a better day
Just you and me

When you're down and out
There seems no hope at all
But if you just believe
There's no way we can fall
Well, well, well, well, let us realize
That a change will only come
When we stand together as one

[Chorus] We are the world
We are the children
We are the ones who make a brighter day
So let's start giving
There's a choice we're making
We're saving our own lives
It's true we'll make a better day